How Do I Fit Artificial Grass
The installation of artificial grass may seem a daunting task on the first attempt, but if broken down into manageable steps, it actually turns out to be both simpler and less labour-intensive than most individuals ever expect. As with all tasks, the initial preparation is key, with the time taken putting in a firm, level and well-drained base, making the patience and care when being meted out as nothing in comparison to the importance of the groundwork. Once it is in place, all it really takes is a steady hand to lay the turf, joining panels well and nipping edges into shape. Securing it securely will then ensure the finish is pristine and pristine it should remain, with lasting greenery and a moment of pride in a DIY job well done.
1- Make Sure the Area is Correctly Marked Out:
The first practical step is then to measure the space. Measure carefully so that grass is not ordered based on an estimate and end up with waste, which is precisely the sort of boring-but-sensible advice. Taking a precise measurement makes a massive difference to the amount you need to purchase, so you don't end up with a surplus or blank corner halfway through. Also, good measurement contributes to the planning of seams, which is often more important than most people realise.
Another thing I would consider at this point is the direction of the pile. The pile should face the main viewing point in the design, and for most houses, this will be toward the house. You should keep the pile direction consistent across the whole lawn, so the joins are invisible and the turf looks more natural.
2- Dig to the Proper Depth & Remove the Existing Lawn:
For a garden installed on soil, the old lawn has got to go in most cases. For the relatively straightforward job, use a turf cutter if you have a large area to cover, as it cuts down on the manual labour quite a lot. Remove the turf and excavate to 100mm (should be 70mm if it's already a free-draining well-compacted soil). Excavate 75mm in a standard situation; this will vary according to your site or ground conditions. This variation in recommended depths is perfectly natural; differing soil types will perform differently; however, a clear message emerges: you need to build on a sufficient subbase for the lawn rather than just squeeze in when there's room to spare.
Having removed the turf, I would now dispose of the stones, roots and other debris so that the overall surface is reasonably smooth. Unsurprisingly, 'if the excavated area has lumps, bumps and stones that should be removed, the finished lawn is more likely to have dips and ripples or those odd soft bits that never quite make it to the planned edge or right where you wanted that flower bed'. Once again, a little fussing puts in the extra time for a noticeably better end result.
3- Before the Base is Installed, Fit the Edging:
The turf will require a robust edge against which it can sit. Use sufficiently hard edging such as timber, metal, brick or concrete. The edging should be smooth to the top, and the height should be flush with the pile height. This is essential as a tidy edge prevents the lawn from lifting and wandering, which makes it appear as though it was installed by someone who'd lost interest halfway through.
In reality, edging is one of those finishing touches that make a finished lawn look planned and purposeful. It gives you a firm edge to hold the grass down against in the future. If the garden is curved, has corners, or joins to paving, edging really comes into its own as it provides a crisp edge to the lawn. It may be no more exciting than the grass that surrounds it, but it is already doing its bit away from prying eyes.
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4- Create a Sturdy, Drainage-friendly Subbase:
This is actually the part that really makes the lawn behave itself. Wickes says to lay a sub-layer of MOT Type 1 (which is: a well-graded hardcore mix of 40mm stones and local rubble), especially if the underlying clay drainage is poor. They suggest a 75mm layer of this material is good to go in the initial stages, then a thin 20-40mm layer of fine aggregate (sharp sand) to make the surface smooth. As Good As Grass suggests a layer of 50-60mm of Type 1 hardcore with a top cover of 10-15mm, sharp sand or granular dust. Namgrass says the same: a base of 50-70mm of Type 1 aggregate with a top layer of 20mm good old-fashioned grit. The variation in figures is just in different guides, but the idea stands no matter what: a firm, levelled base is essential for a quality installation.
Personally, I would take this stage seriously as it is doing the real work. Providing the turf with a good drainage matrix and preventing (or at least minimising) settling or wave forming, this base also determines how tidily the lawn maintains its flat appearance. It is also suggested to have a subtle camber to encourage water flow to the edges. This seems like a decent idea in Britain.
5- Make Sure Everything is Properly Compacted, Then Double-Check:
Compaction is also essential if a professional finish is to be achieved. Instructions for installation in the UK constantly reiterate the need to compact the base in layers rather than only rolling flat once and leaving it to gravity. The MOT Type 1 should be compacted in two to three layers using a plate compactor until firm. Similarly, the aggregate and fine layer should be levelled and compacted, and then the subbase should be lightly sprayed with water to assist the materials in bonding to each other.
But, this is also the stage at which I would go over levels twice more. It's a whole lot simpler to put right a high or low spot before the grass is laid than after. Artificial grass is honest, and if the ground underneath isn't level, then it's going to let you know. Never try to pretend it's not. One of those jobs that "good enough" is usually "visible forever" in, so I would always advise doing one more level check.
6- Cover the Entire Base With the Weed Membrane:
The next layer after the subbase is a permeable weed membrane or landscaping fabric. It should lie over the entire base layer, and it is advised to overlap it by 100mm and pin it down. This is to help prevent the weeds from bursting through without preventing the drainage as you want. It is an extremely unromantic layer, but very important nonetheless.
This is also where you can sometimes get a bit carried away. The membrane isn't there to make the lawn softer or thicker. It is there to give something to keep the base clean and functional. A breathable membrane will perform better than attempting to create a sealed underfloor beneath artificial grass because the entire system must still drain. Artificial grass that cannot drain is simply a damp problem with a better haircut.
7 - Let the Grass Settle Once You Roll it Out:
Unroll the turf, and leave it to settle for a couple of hours, longer if you can; overnight is fantastic! Time to relax helps smooth out as many wrinkles as possible, and allows time for the turf to stabilise so it can be cut and fixed.
When I would be installing, I would ensure the pile direction remained the same throughout the sections. The grass is at its most aesthetic when you're looking into the pile. The reason for this is that a change in pile direction is visually obvious, making the joins stand out and the overall appearance of the lawn appear a little disjointed. If the turf is a double roll, then the alignment is one of the key aesthetic factors in the job.
8- Trim Cautiously as Opposed to Forcefully:
When trimming the edges of the turf, having steady hands is key. Turn the grass over and cut neatly up to the stitch lines without piercing them. It is advised to cut through the backing and not through the blades when trimming. This is intuitively the right thing to do, because the aim is not to cut into the visible turf fibres. Blunt blades with heroic application will do more damage, however, so choose the sharpest, cleanest blades you have.
I think I would trim slowly and check as I go to make sure I didn't go too far. It's very easy to take a fraction too much off afterwards, and a much more difficult job to put it back if it's gone. Near obstacles, borders or curves, it's best to be careful. The finished edge should lie comfortably just on the border or walls rather than standing off on top of them.
9- If You Have Several Rolls, Correctly Join the Seams:
This is often where a neat DIY job can start to look like a stressed-out afternoon. After lining up the overlapping edges, carefully cut the latex backing, ensuring the seam is only just showing and leaving about 12mm between each section. Lay joining tape, shiny side down and spread some outdoor adhesive onto it and lay the turf on top.
The trick to this stage is keeping the joint calm and clean. When heated, the pile should match, the cut should be clean, and there should be sufficient love to prevent fibres from getting caught up in the glue. When done right, the join should blend in without drawing attention.
10- Use Adhesive, Pins, or Nails to Secure the Edges:
After the joints are made, the edges should be secured in position. Use landscaping pins or nails at regular intervals around the edge or every 10-20cm. When the installation is laid onto concrete, glue will work better, and similar 'tacks or nails' are appropriate for timber or decking. The caveat is: it is not to be left to float.
Edges are crucial for this reason because they are under the most pressure and therefore, most affected by wear and tear. If the edges are not well-secured, the turf will, over time, lift or curl at the edges. Not fixing the edges every 15cm is a common mistake that results in lifting and curling. So, although this is difficult, it is the step that will ensure a polished finish for years to come.
11- If the Product Requires It, Add Infill:
If (and only if) infill is to be used, distribute it uniformly and brush it firmly into the pile; this will settle the fibres and also create a more natural 'upright' appearance of the grass. However, I would not assume that infill is essential for every installation. Various turf systems and application demands might mean a slightly varying method, and the best advice is always to follow the manufacturer's specifications.
12- Brush the Pile So the Lawn Looks Lively:
The finishing brush is one of those that you think is unnecessary until you see the results. Brush the grass regularly so the fibres stay straight and even. Brushing is not just purely aesthetic. It also helps to set the infill if that has been used, and prevents the fibres from lying flat in higher traffic areas of the lawn. In a real garden, this is important because the lawn will eventually be subjected to use, and the higher the pile is initially, the better it tends to age.
FAQs:
1- Do I need to remove the existing lawn before fitting in the fake grass?
In the case of a soil garden install, then yes, the old turf or surface would need to be stripped so a suitable foundation can be created. Wickes advises roughly 100mm (70mm if natural free-draining soil has been consolidated already) while As Good As Grass advises roughly 75mm.
2- Is a weed membrane necessary beneath artificial grass?
Yes. A permeable weed membrane is often used, but it needs to cover the whole of the base layer. This is because its purpose is to eliminate weeds without impairing drainage.
3- Is it possible to lay artificial grass on concrete or decking?
Yes. You can lay the artificial grass on concrete and use adhesive on concrete and either nails or tacks on wood or decking. The biggest difference is that you will be fixing to a hard surface rather than building a soil subbase.
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