How To Lay Artificial Grass On Sand
Artificial grass on sand can turn what was a very unappealing section of terrain into something very tidy, easy to care for and looking pretty professional. This is one of those odd jobs that seem so simple until you get into it, but once you do, you discover you've got to get the surface ready, make sure it's level, and ensuring the sand is compacted in order to get the artificial grass sitting flat and secure. If you cut corners during the preparation, you may end up with a lumpy, uneven or otherwise underwhelming result, but get everything right and the finished artifact will be very sturdy, easy to walk on and maintain its new look with only a small amount of attention needed. There is a way to have the artificial grass on sand looking great from the initial preparation stages, right through to confidently rolling it out. And it doesn't take any complicated equipment or high-stress levels.
1. Make Sure the Area is Clear:
a. The first step before anything else is to clear the area thoroughly. This will involve removing the old turf, plants, stones, weeds, roots and all sorts of garden rubbish. The tops of the surfaces must be excavated to make way for the subbase.
b. Remove the existing grass and a few inches of its underlying earth, too. Artificial grass requires a solid, uniform foundation, not bits of battered lawn, soft ground, and lumps lurking just below the surface waiting to cause problems when you aren't looking. That kind of cutting corners always leads to disappointment.
c. It also aids in clarifying the precise shape of the area that the edge of the turfing should follow, before the hole is dug too far. Using string lines or marker spray can make the pattern much more obvious.
d. The area then needs to be checked for drainage. If water collects on that part of the lawn, then the base will need to be prepared with it in mind. An artificial lawn is well-draining, but it can't fix a badly prepared surface.
Pro-Tip: Take out more existing material than you initially assumed. Starting fresh really simplifies the rest of the job.
2. Dig to the Proper Depth:
a. Once the site is levelled, the focus is on excavating. The excavation is the first stage in the process, where the space available for the base layers and the grass has to be established.
b. Typically, sufficient depth is required to be taken away to create space for the sub-base, sand layer and artificial turf pile. If the ground is merely harrowed lightly, the finished surface may be too high, ragged or irregular at the edges. Rather than encounter this problem, it is key to make space for the whole build-up.
c. The level will be different no matter what, varying with ground condition and type of installation, but here is the key point: it needs to be consistent. All the area should be excavated to about the same level so the finished surface doesn't feel wobbly between patches of different heights.
3. Put a Weed Membrane in Place:
a. After it is excavated and cleared, the addition of a weed membrane is a very reasonable layer to apply. This step prevents weeds from growing up through the base and disrupting the appearance of the finished article.
b. Although even existing artificial turf blocks a fair amount of light, weeds are still able to grow at the edges or between gaps where the subbase has not been protected. A membrane provides further protection and will maintain a neat appearance for a longer period.
c. The membrane needs to be smoothed out across the whole area with overlaps where necessary to make sure there are no gaps. It doesn't have to be elaborate. It just has to work.
4. Create the Base Layer First:
a. This is where the sand begins to become part of the structure and not just a loose substance in its own right.
b. A proper base will usually consist of a layer of aggregate or hardcore being laid before the sand is added, again depending on your arrangement and what type of installation you are doing. The reason for this is simple: sand is brilliant for smoothing things out and getting the right finish; however, in itself, it can be a little soft if not properly packed together. A good, solid lower-level base means the whole installation will be held firmly in place.
c. It's then time to ensure this lower level is very well packed; often, a plate compactor will be used for this purpose. The aim is to achieve a level, solid surface that won't move once the rain has fallen or foot traffic is added. If the base is soft now, it will stay soft later, only it will be a lot more difficult to deal with then.
d. The more the base is compacted, the better the end result will be and although this stage isn't exactly exciting, it's the part that makes the exciting part possible.
5. Carefully Add the Layer of Sand:
a. After the lower base has been compacted, the sand layer is added. The sand is only placed after the lower base has been compacted. It is at this point that the ground begins to take shape.
b. Sand should be spread out in a level, even layer over the area. Its function is to provide a flat, uniform base for the artificial grass to be laid on. It helps to iron out small uneven undulations, helping to give a tidy appearance to the completed lawn.
c. Sharp sand is used because it is very compactable and is also firmer on the top than softer building sand. It doesn't matter if it is piled up unevenly, as the thing that affects it more is whether it has been laid evenly or not. It should be balanced, not fluffy.
d. A long, straight edge or screed can be used to level out the layer. Measuring across the area at a few spots enables you to spot lows prior to them becoming an issue. When compacted, the sand should feel solid on your feet and be prepared for the next phase.
Pro-Tip: If you are levelling the sand, do small areas at a time. Attempting to "eyeball" a whole garden will most likely have continual highs and lows that you will see a little later!
Also, Read:-
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6. Properly Compact the Sand:
a. This stage is more important than people imagine. Poorly compacted sand may move, shift, subside unevenly or produce soft points underneath the artificial lawn.
b. A plate compactor over the sand will consolidate it, providing a more solid and even formation to the base that would support the associated lawn much better. It will also minimize the potential for the appearance of dips once installed.
c. Compaction will be maximized if it is applied in several passes, not a single, hurried compaction. The sand should be evenly distributed over the whole area to allow it to settle evenly throughout. The surface should not feel patchy or uneven following compaction.
7. Examine the Drainage & Slope:
a. There is no requirement for the garden to be totally flat. Slight undulation can be advantageous, and the key is how smooth and controlled the fall is.
b. If water has nowhere to run, then it will pool in dips and create unsightly puddles. While golf course 'greens' and other such features may be perforated with drainage holes, these still require a sensible base underneath them, and the surface should be designed to let water flow away naturally without waiting in a little pool like the play is over.
c. It can be good to examine the whole surface with a long straight piece of wood or a spirit level before the installation has been completed. This can show if the surface has any dimensions that are too tilted or exaggerated for the job, which need correcting.
d. This shouldn't necessarily be a sharp downward slope. It should aim for a subtle, appropriate evenness if necessary. Drainage should be working quietly in the background and not overwhelming any aesthetic.
8. Properly Prepare the Edges:
a. Edges are often the "make or break" point for artificial grass installations, either looking very professional or a little slapdash. Neat edges can make a huge difference to the appearance of the project.
b. Border Edging with a suitable border system, such as timber, brick, metal, etc., serves to retain the sand and grass while providing a clean edge around the installation. An installation without border edging may result in the sand migrating and the grass lifting at the edges.
c. Correct edging can also help shape the lawn. It prevents the laying from appearing as if an amorphous green 'blotch' has wandered in!
9. Roll Out the Synthetic Grass:
a. Now that the base is ready, the fake grass can finally be placed down. Now things start to take shape in the form of something quite exciting, instead of a bunch of materials for the construction of the base.
b. Roll out the grass evenly onto the shaped area. It is advisable to leave the grass for a short while after it has been rolled up, if this is how it has been stored, as the fibres will have become tensioned and it will be easier to lay flat.
c. Hold the rolls as you put them down and look at the pile. The piles in artificial grass fibres often look better when all the sections run in the same direction. If one piece runs the other way, the colour and texture can look false in the light.
Pro-Tip: Unroll the grass and leave it to hang in the sun before trimming or fixing if you can. It will be a lot easier to work with once it has had a chance to relax.
10. If Necessary, Join Sections Neatly:
a. If there is more than a single pack of turf in the whole area, then it is necessary to join the rolls correctly. During laying, poor joining causes the whole lawn to look patchwork or very carefully sectioned off.
b. The joining lines must be cut flat and kept in close contact. Usually, a joining tape and glue will be used to stick the joins together. The secret is to keep a fence of nearly invisible joins as part of the finished surface.
c. You must ensure that the artificial grass is not pushed on top of each other (which would be just as unprofessional looking) or pulled apart (which is even more annoying). Both are very easy to spot.
11. Carefully Trim the Edges:
a. The edges are to be trimmed closely to the border, paving, or adjacent feature. As ever, a sharp blade is normally required to make a neat cut. A dull blade can snag the grass, and snags are not attractive.
b. Throughout this process, work in a logical, methodical manner and keep checking the job. Taking a little extra at an early stage is easier than rectifying overcut areas at a later date. It is always wise to trim conservatively.
12. Secure the Grass Firmly in Place:
a. Artificial grass has to be safely secured so it cannot move, lift or curl at the edges. The exact method will depend on the surface and edge detail, but the objective is to provide stability regardless.
b. Most installations require perimeter fixing, and in some cases, the grass will need to be fixed in other areas too. Edges should be fixed solidly so that they do not lift slightly after some weather or foot traffic.
c. This is where the support of a good foundation is invaluable. If there is sufficient support for the base and well-established edges, fixing the grass is much less of a challenge and the end product will be much more reliable.
13. Add Sand Infill, If Necessary:
a. Some installations that use artificial grass also have it infilled with sand. This can aid in supporting the blades and help structure and stabilize the lawn whilst also adding to the natural softness underfoot.
b. This should be brushed across the surface evenly and should not be applied in piles. Generally, less is best as too much can be unsightly, and having enough infill allows the grass fibres to stand more upright. The surface may also become more secure and settled.
14. Brush the Fibres:
Fake grass may require brushing to get the best appearance. New turf may look a little flat after rolling, trimming and fixing, but a firm broom or specialist brush can lift fibres to give a more natural appearance.
FAQs:
1. Is it possible to place fake grass straight on sand?
You can't just throw artificial grass onto soft sand. The sand should be laid on a correctly prepared and compressed base so the grass is flat and solid. A solid foundation is far more critical than the top layer.
2. Does artificial grass on sand require a weed membrane?
Yes, weed membrane is a fairly good idea. It prevents weeds from growing through the bottom and keeps it tidier for longer. And is a simple measure that could make many future problems go away.
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