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Is It Possible To Put Fake Grass On Top Of Natural Grass?

Yes, it is physically possible to put fake grass over existing natural grass, but the larger question then becomes: " Should you? " In theory, this sounds fantastic- no need for all the digging and messy preparation; just roll it out, et presto, instant, neat garden! However, natural grass underneath tends to be quite mischievous if you try to ignore it. Bumps in the ground, trapped moisture, inadequate drainage and rotting vegetation underneath can quickly transform a quick job into a costly one. So the answer is a simple yes or no isn't the right answer to the question of putting artificial turf over real grass; it all comes down to what the natural grass condition is like, how long it is going to be on there, and if the surface is capable of taking the weight of it.

 

In a Nutshell, It's Feasible but Typically Illogical:

In a spirit of utmost honesty, laying synthetic grass directly on living grass is not considered an appropriate first step for a full installation. Current installation procedures specify that the base should be sound, level, firm and water-permeable; this does not quite translate to 'whatever grows underneath'. Artificial turf is also required to be free-draining, and there has to be a good enough sub-base preparation for the artificial turf system not to fail over time, and most popular guides specify that existing turf, weeds, and rocks should be removed before a layer of artificial grass can be laid.

 

This is quite straightforward: living grass constantly evolves. It can grow or thin, hold moisture and start to rot and compact under an artificial layer, the effects of which may lead to an uneven surface, a damp layer under the synthetic surface, lack of stability, or excessive wear in places. An artificial turf installation may appear to perform well immediately, but an underlying problem will eventually appear, and that is why the majority of guides state that you should clear and prepare a surface, not install directly on top of live grass.

 

Why Taking the Shortcut is Alluring:

a. There are obvious reasons to take advantage of this. Digging up a lawn is no fun; disposal takes longer than you might think, and subbase is not exactly the sort of term that makes a garden party go with a swing. Any option that promises to avoid that difficult stage can seem very attractive, particularly if the garden only requires minor decoration. Added to that is the idea that artificial grass can be relatively low maintenance, so a rapid install seems all the more appealing.

b. Unfortunately, the bit that is being avoided is quite often the bit which makes it work. Artificial grass has its most desirable results when it has a decent foundation, and the installation advice is always consistent that you need a firm, well-draining substrate underneath it. One guide states clearly that you cannot use the soil itself because "weeds, unevenness or poor drainage" will ruin it within weeks. A natural lawn isn't much of a better foundation alternative either.

c. From my point of view, the appeal is clear, but the shortcut tends to be the costly element. The more you make use of the existing lawn as a prepared surface, the more likely the artificial surface is to cause problems later on.

 

What Happens If the Grass is Not Removed?

 

 

a. The biggest issue with unevenness is where there is a non-uniform layer sitting under the synthetic grass. Living grass cannot naturally stay flat when dying and/or being compressed under the weight, and it is this lack of stability of what lies underneath which creates lumps and bumps and can negatively impact the aesthetics of the finished lawn. Artificial grass needs a solid, load-bearing, level substrate and not living turf.

b. Drainage is also a concern. Water should be able to drain well through an installation of artificial grass, and instructions concerning permeable surfacing and artificial grass installations highlight the necessity to handle rainfall appropriately. Once the underlying grass layer begins to compress or degrade, the grass surface below can retain water, creating the potential for waterlogging and damaging the artificial surface.

c. Weed is also an issue. It's essential to remove the existing grass and weeds thoroughly. Failure to do so can result in them 're-pushing through' or creating a bumpy and untidy sub-base. Multiple installation guides emphasise not to just lay over grass, weeds and stones, as the sub-base will not function correctly. Which matters as artificial turf is intended to be low maintenance and not secretly involve a new genre of buried maintenance.

 

Pro-Tip: If doing a long-term upgrade to the garden, think of the natural lawn as being removed and not saved beneath the surface. You need to have the proper sub-base, rather than keep the existing one for ease.

 

Also Read:- 

Laying Artificial Grass – The Complete Guide to Everything

A Step-By-Step Guide To Laying Artificial Grass On Concrete

Artificial Grass Cost Estimation For Your Artificial Lawn

What Goes Under Artificial Grass

 

Clearing the Old Lawn First is Typically the Correct Approach:

a. A typical installation begins by excavating turf, weeds, roots, and loose organic matter. The installation instructions say 'dig down three inches, taking care to remove all turf, weeds, and stones'. This is because you need a stable base under your artificial grass that cannot be disturbed or have anything rotting under the surface to destabilise the lawn and potentially give off unpleasant odours.

b. Once all turf is removed, the base is levelled and compacted, then an appropriate sub-base material is laid on top of it. Installation instructions usually specify that the base needs to be stable, load-bearing, level and water permeable. However, some will specify the inclusion of a base material; they say the sub-base often prefers granite dust over sharp sand because it has better binding and drainage characteristics, although both may be suitable for some systems. These are the kinds of nuances that really matter in the long term.

c. This is important as the artificial turf is only part of a solution. The base is what makes the lawn remain tidy, well-drained and level in the long run. An effective artificial lawn behaves like a finished surface because the layers beneath it are prepared like a finished surface. Anything but this kind of process is usually bound to become a problem requiring remediation at a later date.

 

How About a Temporary Cover?

The case of a temporary cover is another question. If you plan to use fake grass to put over the existing lawn just for an hour or two, or just for the visual effect of an event, the risks are perhaps more easily acceptable, as there won't be enough time for the existing grass to decay or the underlying surface to be badly ruined. Even then, you will want the underlying surface to be as flat, dry and even as possible so that the turf will lie flat and not crease or bunch up. The issue is that natural grass isn't a flat, even surface, and a true installation is expected to be put on a level, even base.

 

Nevertheless, a temporary cover is still not the same thing as an actual garden change. If you want to use the space as a garden that will be around for some time, the grass ought to be removed, and the area put on a suitable base as required for the installation of artificial grass. The temporary notion may sound fine to some, but it is certainly not the same thing as a full install.

 

Moisture: The Silent Troublemaker

a. The main argument not to leave natural grass beneath is moisture. Living grass holds water, and even when it begins to decompose under synthetic grass, it can hold dampness and encourage a nasty environment underneath the turf itself. An artificial grass installation requires proper drainage, and advice on permeable surfaces says that managing drainage is key to the long-term function of an artificial turf installation. That is exactly what the base does.

b. When water gets trapped, it leads to unpleasant smells, decomposition and a sad turf experience. This can also encourage movement of the artificial grass and the surface to begin to wear and buckle. Artificial grass can be a "low maintenance" surface once installed properly, but this is not the case if the surface lies on a decaying, wet natural grass base. Such hidden filth quickly turns "easy garden" into "what's this bump on the turf?"

c. The clear lesson to be drawn here is that drainage must be part of the plan, and not guesswork. A proper artificial grass base is water-permeable, and the system as a whole must allow for water to move through and away; that becomes much trickier when the substrate is still alive and kicking.

 

How About the Weed Membrane?

 

 

a. A weed membrane can be integrated into a good artificial turf installation, but it is not a miracle cure for replacing natural grass. Weed suppressants are usually listed within the installation guides when setting a correctly prepared base, but that installation occurs after the natural grass has been removed and the level has been established appropriately. The membrane simply decreases the amount of growth in the future; it does not make a natural lawn a stable base layer for an installation on top of it.

b. That point is relevant since people can mistakenly think a membrane can simply mean hiding old grass underneath the new surface. This simply isn't true, and the weed-suppressant membrane is one of the layers within the artificial turf installation, not a component of the base works: a firm, level, weight-bearing base will always be required for artificial grass. You just can't sort out an unstable base by virtue of introducing a membrane: this is another of those decorations that just sounds good until you get to the implementation.

 

Pro-Tip: Remember that weed membrane is a finishing touch, not part of the construction itself. Without correct preparation of the underlying structure, a weed membrane is simply an aesthetic fix for fundamental flaws.

 

Why the Proper Base is Necessary for the Completed Turf:

a. When is artificial grass at its best? When the fibres are upright, and the surface is even. Installation guidance for pile direction states that laying direction is important, as the turf looks best from one angle and brushing/infill can help the fibres stand up more naturally. This only works correctly when the ground below the artificial grass is completely level and uniform, and this is significantly harder with a lump or an uneven natural lawn below.

b. Infill can provide support to the fibres, improve the look and help reduce the speed of fibre flattening. Proper installation guidance also stresses the importance of the use of a correct volume of infill sand in artificial grass installation; again, infill only helps support a well-laid installation. It is not a substitute for leaving a living lawn in place.

c. This is the reason that the answer to the fundamental question is continually coming back to the same answer: it's all down to the base and not the shortcut. It is not possible to expect the turf to act correctly, no matter how nice the turf looks when it's first unrolled, if the base is incorrect.

 

Does Skipping the Groundwork Save Money?

It does at first sight, and without the cost of excavation and removal, it will appear cheaper in terms of labour and waste disposal. However, installation guides consistently illustrate that artificial turf needs to be installed on a proper sub-base, and any savings made now may be lost later by having to replace damaged turf, replace it due to poor drainage, or redo the whole installation. The latest available costings estimate supplying and fitting artificial turf, including a sub-base, at £45–£80 per m², and from this you can see that the sub-base is not merely some decorative afterthought but a legitimate part of the cost of the project.

 

 

FAQs:

1. Can fake grass be laid on top of real grass?

Yes, it can; however, it will not result in an appropriate installation. Recommendations state that an artificial grass installation should be on top of a solid, level, load-bearing, water-permeable sub-base; the most conventional method for this is to remove the underlying grass.

 

2. What are the risks of having real grass left below?

It will make the surface uneven, impede drainage, allow weeds to grow through and cause premature wearing out of the artificial turf. The rotting turf can also create issues below and provide an unfit sub-base for the turf.

 

3. Can I ever use fake grass on top of real grass?

In extreme cases, only as a temporary cover; however, even in this scenario, it is not a "real" install and will not achieve the desired results.

 

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